Correction coefficient for the wave meter and expressions for wave height calculation are inferred and three methods for observation and calculation of wave height are addressed.
推导了测波仪波高订正系数表达式及波高计算公式。阐述了三种波高的观测计算方法。
Based on this model, we analyze the effects of the change of wave height, wave's incident Angle, bottom friction coefficient and topography on rip current, and some useful conclusions are reached.
在此基础上，进一步分析了波浪入射波高、入射角度、底摩阻及驼峰高度对裂流的影响，得出了一些有用的结论。
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